William Hay, Writer: Ethiopia - Lalibela

I’m staying at the Mountainview Hotel. It’s divine. I slept well last night. In the evening the power had gone out several times for only minutes at a time. I was in the Hotel restaurant waiting for a steak. The staff brought each table a candle. I had a superb steak cut up in mouth sized bits and served with pasta in a tasty brown sauce.

I had Coca Cola and drank two. I’m really enjoying coke here. There had been a downpour in the evening and the hills all became a luscious happy emerald green. It’s was magical. This morning the vegetation is more khaki again. Still the plants all look happy today. There is joy in the land.

I awoke at 4 am having gone to bed at 10 pm. I opened the curtains and walked out on the balcony naked and sat in a chair along time. Gentle pre dawn breeze and night fragrances. I talk to God and listen. I read for a bit then, tried to nap but couldn’t. Seeing a thin line of pink over the mountains I got up and took a picture of dawn in Lalibela. I had a long hot shower and thanked God for the modern bathroom. I reorganized my bag a bit, something travellers are ever doing considering how little stuff one carries. All of it’s important. Right now my jeans and a shirt are being done in the laundry. I put on my fresh jeans and a clean shirt then went down for breakfast.

The bread with jam was delicious and the rest was mostly fruit with some sweet pastries. The Asian couple with mother badgering the children were already there. It was 7:30 when I was out on the balcony waiting for a Tuk Tuk That’s what the locals call the 3 wheel auto rickshaw . The name came from Thailand.

I’d spoken with the manager to arrange a tour at the old churches 42 km out of town tomorrow.. It will cost $65 for the ride and $50 for the tour guide. Today I visited the southern cluster on my own having reread Bradt.

The first in the southern cluster of churches was the Bet Gabriela Rafael, twin churches. When I entered a priest was giving communion to a group of mostly elderly ladies all dressed in white. I nodded at one and she nodded to the chair so I was able to catch the last of this solemn service. I enjoy being invited and included in worship services. It’s a blessing I’ve known most of my life. I hope they sense I’m a true seeker. The service ended and they all ushered out leaving me alone to meditate and pray. I walked to the next room where I was alone so sat again for more reflection, asking the saints from protection and guidance. I’ve been asking forgiveness too. My greatest regret has been being untrue to women, yet my greatest joy in life has been the love of women.

This church is thought to have been the original residence of King Lalibela being built on the remains of a fortress dating from the 9th century. After this church I was walking outside and a beautiful girl in black with white shawl pointed me back, as I’d missed the entrance. She was with a handsome young man and an elder woman and children.. She was laughing as she lead me down into the darkness, her daughter, I think about 9 years old dancing past me as I climbed down the steep steps. What I assumed was the white clothed grand mother followed.

The daughter pointed me on into the darkness. I just felt the wall and did my night tai chi hunter walk turning my phone off and on in hope of some light from my phone but it was so dark that this only showed me where my phone was and destroyed what little night vision I had. It was really a faith thing one hand on the wall, more for balance. . Y

I continued on what seemed like a long way until my head brushed the ceiling then the light of a door way became apparent. The light was coming in from the ceiling and I climbed steps up to the entrance to Bet Mercurios church. The young woman emerged laughing followed by the rest of the family. Following them was small group of German ladies. Everyone was laughing. I was thanked all round for leading the way. I reached into my bag and found the tiny pocket light I had and gave it to the young lady. Then found my head lamp and showed I was ready “next time”.. Everyone was laughing including the guards and priests. It was a fun encounter.

In Bet Emmanuel I prayed some more. There were a group of westerners about my age and I enjoyed observing them. Lovely people. The priest was interested in their photographing the Lalibela Cross with the father, son and Holy Spirit. I sat for a bit giving thanks. This was one of the peaceful places like Golgotha and Tomb of Adam in the Northern Cluster.

I followed the sound of chanting and heard the leader and many voices coming from somewhere in the centre of the Northern Cluster. There was drumming and the congregation was sing. I loved that these shrines were still serving and not just monuments.

Outside the gates, another church service was taking place under a great tree. All these women and men were walking in a great circle while others looked on. Apparently every day there are church services at around 730 am which I could attend. I might well yet.

I walked down the road to an extended collection of small mud and brick houses. A pleasant young man asked me only, “can I help you?”

I asked if it was okay for me to walk through the village. He said yes. It seemed quite a warren and I confess I was concerned that carrying a computer in my bag and cameras I was at risk of being robbed. So I asked if he’d walk with me and I’d give him money. Then I headed in remembering the other times I’d left the beaten path. The young man followed. A 3 year old boy joined us and tried to take my hand. Then he took the young man’s hand. I’d thought him a stray. When he walked with the other I asked “Is he your brother?” He laughed. “No, my brother’s son.”

I liked seeing the burro tied outside a hut and chickens outside another and cows outside another. The inside of the huts looked dark and cool. A woman called out to the young man and he called back something I assume in Amharic, the language of the land. Not knowing how, I’d become lost, and was glad to find my way out. I paid the young man and he was very happy. I told him he could get tourists by offering a tour of a ‘traditional village’. He was shy but laughed. The little boy was adorable. The children often just stand curious looking at you like some strange creature. Other’s somewhat older more jaded begin to beg. I like the former.

In Lalibela there’s not been any of the intrusiveness of Addis or Lake Tana. People approach here, I say no, and they don’t push. At Lake Tana when I stopped to look at something the vendor would then follow me trying to sell so I stopped looking and decided not to shop on the streets but wait till I could buy something in the museum’s and malls where there wasn’t the pressure.

I took a Tuk Tuk back up the hill. It was already hot. There’s a lot of climbing up and down stairs in the churches. I was thankful that I could still walk and climb. I’d had the same thought visitting the underground churches of Cappodoecia. These pilgrimages are not set up for wheelchairs or walkers or for those with major heart or lung conditions. I am glad I haven’t ‘put it off’ because pilgrimage may be for the mature and even old but not for the very old. One poor fellow with a gut was huffing and puffing and asking the guide which was the shortest route with least steps. The southern cluster was indeed a bit more physical. My legs were weak . My knee is better today but the effort for my other leg left it weak. I was rather tired. I’d left at 8 am and it was 10 am. It felt like 12 . So going up the hill I was glad to flag down the Tuk Tuk and take the leisurely way back to Mountainview Hotel.

Now I’m in the shade on the balcony. I’ve finished the liter of Pristine treated water in my Contigo water bottle. I’m now having more of the incredible Ethiopian Coffee with Milk. I was glad to have it along today as I could have used it yesterday. The view here is amazing. I”m very blessed and content. God is good.