At the airport there were several tour groups leaving, one before me and one with me. I recognized Dutch and German and British accents. Lots of older people my age and beyond.
On the flight looking down I was struck by the deep ravines cut through the land. Axum is Tigray’s main tourist hub. The Axumite empire once spread to Yemen and the Sudan. I’m staying in The Sabean International Hotel and the culture of the Axumite Empire was Sabean. The earliest settlement was 7th century BC. The Axumite Empire peaked between 3rd and 6th century. Christianity was adopted as the state religion in 4th century. St. Maryam Tsion was established then along with the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Gudit, a Jewish queen in the 8th cntury destroyed the city and it’s Christian shrines.
Stelae Park has 120 odd stelae. 10 story finely engraved obelisks and rough hewn ones. The largest fallen one 13 stories, is 500 tons. This was the 3rd century King Remhai. Quite the feat of engineering. Not particularly religions, begun in pre Christian times and representing the wealth and power of the one who erected the stelae.There are subterrainean tombs here. The second largest had been taken by Mussolini during the Italian occupation but returned after that. The third largest is King Ezana’s who also was the King who adopted Christianity.
Behind Stellae Park is a pleasant informative Axum museum with odds and bits of archeological interest. They didn’t allow photography.
Cathedral of Maryam Tsion is Ethiopia’s first church. It was established in the 4th Century by King Ezana. The church was destroyed by the Islamic leader Ahmed Gragn in the 16th century though Queen Gudit had damaged it before. I was able to take a photograph of the foundation of the original church. The church with the beautiful paintings was built by Emperor Fasilidas in the 17th century. Women are not allowed in the compound. Behind the old church was where the kings and emperors are crowned.
The largest church which Bradt Travel Guide for Ethiopia described as ‘ugly’. was built in the 1960’s under Haile Selassie. I found it a beautiful church with the most amazing artwork and light open space.
The most famous religious artefact, the Tabot, or Ark of the Covenant is currently kept in a sanctified building in the compound. My guide left me with the church keeper and a monk who got the key to let me in. These were delightful men proud and happy in sharing these spiritual treasures. I sat and prayed for a bit and felt that connection to centuries of worship. It’s incredibly uplifting to be here.
There was some mystery as to where the Tabot was and I didn’t get a clear answer but that it was or had been moved to another place for security. It was in one of the two churches in the compound. Only a priest is allowed to see the Ark. There were three replicas in the compound too. Security must be a major concern. I was struck by the ‘Black Mary and Black Jesus’ painting.
I didn’t go into the museum because they wouldn’t allow cameras and bags and I carry my iPad with me and just didn’t like the risk despite the guard and the locked container much like the airport safe boxes. I was tired anyway and developing a summer cold or a brain tumor. I never know which until I get better. It was also very hot and despite an hour of light rain the sun came out fully. I had 30 spf sun screen but still got a red face.
I’m here at the Sabean International Hotel after a good nights sleep about to go out to find Queen of Sheba’s Palace:
I’m here at the Sabean International Hotel after a good nights sleep about to go out to find Queen of Sheba’s Palace:
Stelae Park
Mausoleum
St. Mary Tsion Church — Tabot - Ark of Covenant
New Ark of Covenant Church
1960’s Haile Selassie Church. Baptismal, a gift of Russia
Black Mary and Jesus
Loaner Canes for leaning against during standing only services
St. Mary Tsion Church - Ark of Covenant
Foundation of original 4th century church
Haile Selassie’s 1960 church
Throne where Emperor’s and Kings are crowned
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