Saturday, December 29, 2018

In Ethiopia With A Mule by Dervla Murphy

If there is any doubt about Irish women being indomitable and mad, then reading this endearing tale of Dervia hiking through the highlands of Ethiopia in the 60’s. Born in the 30’s she bicycled from London to India first then headed out to Ethiopia.
What a tale of generous kindly hospitable impoverished peasants inviting her nightly to their compounds because the hyeanas and tigers threatened her mule at night. Robberies, attacks by baboons, sliding down cliffs, the best of beurocrats and marvellous royalty. She meets all sorts and describes the people, churches and the land beautifully. She is scathing in her description of some she meets like a nasty robber posing as a priest. She makes it clear her encounters with the bad or downright evil were utterly rare especially given the wonderful care and welcome the country extended to her.
 She seemed never to fear rape, murder yes, but she was most incensed to lose her sleeping bag and so thankful that the police found and returned it.
 Jock the mule is a delightful character. A bit of a Steinbeck’sTravels with Charlie without hardly any amenities. No truck, no camper, not even a tent, but jock carried her books and fountain pen, an compass and maps she’d later lose.
She definitely liked the local beer, safer than water. She didn’t like the bugs so often sleeping on the ground amidst animals and children.
What a tale! What a great Irish lady and storyteller.
I want even more to visit Ethiopia especially the churches of Lalibela which she described as moving her. Wonderful scenery and people.Thank you for your heroic tale.

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