Saturday, July 4, 2015

Galway and the Latin Quarter, Ireland

We had to drive around Galway past the Galway Cathedral and back again to find the hotel district near Ceannt Train Station and Eyre Square.  I asked for vacancy at a couple of hotels which were fully booked. We were fortunate in being referred to the stylish Forster Court Hotel. Given the popularity of Galway, when I return I’d plan to book a hotel in advance, and likely would stay at the Forster Court Hotel given the excellent welcoming service.
Setting out to explore Galway the next day we fell in love with the Latin Quarter.
On that pedestrian street we came across another Faller Jewellers.  Asking,  we learned that members of the same family owned this jewelry store and the one we’d loved in Londonderry.  Laura was delighted to find just the right Claddagh ring for her daughter Shannon.  The day before when we’d crossed Shannon River at Shannon’s Bridge to go to Clanmacnoise, Laura had been ecstatic,  saying  “I named my daughter, Shannon, after Shannon Ireland, and here I am crossing Shannon River.”  Now she was so happy to be able to buy her daughter one of the famous friendship Claddagh rings of Galway, depicting a heart (symbolizing love) between two outstretched hands (friendship) topped by a crown (loyalty). These rings were handcrafted by the local jewellers.  Further along the street we’d see the jewelry museum in the oldest jewelry shop Thomas Dillon’s Claddagh Gold.
I’d been blessed to find the Faller’s Jewelry in Londonderry where I bought the gold Mura Cross which lead to Laura and my adventure to Fahan Village to find the actual St. Mura Cross in the St. Mura Church graveyard.  Now here in Galway I saw on display in another jewelry store, the Claddagh Jewellers,  a traditionally shaped Celtic Cross almost identical to the one I’d lost when I was mugged in Athens and had my gold celtic cross torn from around my neck.  This was the Cross of Muiredeach (www.oghamdesign.com) and the gold carving was an exact replica of the actual cross, the magnificent detail only apparent under a magnifying glass.  My original cross made in Canada had only been artistically similar whereas this one was authentically real. Feeling almost like I was betraying my Mura Cross I couldn’t resist and bought the Muiredeach, figuring I’d have a cross for every occasion. It would also later lead to another grand graveyard adventure finding the actual Cross of Muiredeach at Monasterboice, Louth.  I also bought Laura Claddagh Earrings  to go with the Claddagh Ring I bought for her years ago in the Celtic Store at Lonsdale Quay.
Ireland is gifted with book stores.  I’m convinced the Irish are simply more literate than Canadians in general.
We were able to change our Northern Ireland pounds to Euros at the bank in the Latin Quarter.  There we listened for some time to the Canna Quartet, a group of young women making wonderful string music in the street.  Further along a family group played beautifully. When we sat for a outside morning cappucino we were fortunate to have a talented young man playing traditional Irish folk music on the accordion across from us. Galway is the home of several music festivals.  Our friend Joyce Goodwin had encouraged us to appreciate the famed folk music in Western Ireland.  Now we were truly blessed as Laura saw an advertisement for a traditional music concert in St. Nicholas Church.
We’d go off to visit the Galway Museum, the Spanish Arch and walk the Long Walk along the River Corrib, tour the Galway Cathedral then return to the Latin Quarter for dinner.  We sat outside and had the very best Fish and Chips at the Quay Restaurant. I had Galway Bay raw oysters for an appertiser and thought they were nearly as good as our Fanny Bay oysters from Vancouver Island.  The people watching in the Latin Quarter was the best. After dinner we walked over to the nearby St. Nicholas Church for the very finest experience in traditional Irish folk music.
DSCN5464DSCN5465DSCN5468
  IMG 9709DSCN5520DSCN5475DSCN5469DSCN5521DSCN5476DSCN5523DSCN5478DSCN5522IMG 9713IMG 9717IMG 9719DSCN5463

Galway and the Galway Cathedral, Ireland

Laura and I loved Galway. We understand why it’s a favourite tourist destination and a site of so many Irish festivals. Whenever we told people we were going to Galway in other parts of Ireland, they’d say, “Oh, we love Galway.”  Being there so did we.
Crossing the Salmon Weir Bridge on the River Corrib in the centre of town we first saw the magnificent Galway Cathedral. The rose windows were particularly beautiful.  Later we’d visit this holy place.  Sitting in prayer it ‘felt’ right.  A truly beautiful new cathedral begun in 1957.  The miracle of the cathedral is that it is built on the site of the old jail.  It was officially opened in 1965, with ceremonies lead by Cardinal Cushing, Archbishop of Boston.
Rennaissance style dominates the architecture but the external arch is Romanesque.  The building is of Galway limestone. The seats are of Utile mahogany from West Africa. The floor is of Portuguese marble. The high artistry of Patrick Pollen and Gillian Quirke are evident in the mosaics and windows.  The rose window that so impressed me from afar was even more moving close up. The light in the sanctuary was enriched by the stained glass windows.  It was a good place to pray and meditate.
 DSCN5505DSCN5506DSCN5507DSCN5508DSCN5509DSCN5512DSCN5514

Tuam and St. Mary's Cathedral, Ireland

Laura and I loved this friendly pretty little town where we stopped for lovely bagel BLT lunch before going on to Galway.  The highlight for us was visiting St. Mary’s Cathedral where the gentleman present there was so informative and clearly adoring of his church.  Church of Ireland, Anglican, it was built in 1878.   This third church was built on the site of the first  12th century cathedral incorporating the Hiberno-Romanesque Arch while the second 14th century de Burgo Cathedral became the Synod Hall and Library. This was also contains the national monument, the High Cross of Tuam.  It was erected in the 12th century by Turlough O’Connor. The Nave of O’Connor was destroyed by fire in 1184.  The de Burgo family built the second church.  The Chancel Arch from the 12th century was an architectural accomplishment of it’s day.
 DSCN0179DSCN0180DSCN0182DSCN0186DSCN0191DSCN0192DSCN0188DSCN0184DSCN0189IMG 9703DSCN0198DSCN0199DSCN0200

Sligo, Ireland

We drove into Sligo in the evening. We’d stopped for  a superb dinner at the Harbour Restaurant in Donegal.  The scenery on the way down was worth the road trip.  A great mountain ridge rose to the left of us, the famed Benbulben.
DSCN0097DSCN0101
To the right we could see ragged cliffs and Atlantic  ocean.
DSCN0098
We entered Sligo in the evening crossing the Harbour Estuary by the Hughes bridge.   River Garavogue carries on from here. That night we saw the Sligo Famine Memorial, a grieving family sculpture by Fred Conton.   It was erected in 1997 to mark the anniversary of “Black ’47”. More than 2000 famine victims were buried in the famine Graveyard of Sligo’s St. John’s Hospital.  More than 30,000 people left Sligo for new lives abroad between 1847 and 1851.
 We stayed in the Sligo City Hotel, thankful for their hospitality.  That evening, with all the shops closed, Laura and I walked about the silent streets of Sligo, liking it very much.  The next day we saw the bronze Yeats sculpture by Rohan Gillepsie.  It was unveiled by his son, Michael, to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of Yeat’s death.
 DSCN0111DSCN0112DSCN0113
The Sligo Abbey was founded in the 13th Century.
DSCN0115DSCN0116DSCN0117DSCN0118DSCN0119
DSCN0122DSCN0123
DSCN0125

When we left Sligo, the next morning we drove back the few km up to Drumcliffe Church, the ancient monastery founded by St. Columcille, Drumcliffe Cross and the W.B. Yeats Grave.  We returned to Galway and drove the few km from there to the Carrymore Megalithic Cemetery, dating from 3500 B.C