Showing posts with label St. Petersburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label St. Petersburg. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

St. Petersburg - morning - international airport

Barrett booked a plane to Ulyanovsk at 7 am.  With the help of her brother in law, Vlad, she’d assured a reliable taxi with fixed rate would be meeting us.  Barrett, who speaks Russian and has dual American and Russian citizenship has been a thorough delight with such travel details.  On my own I’ve now been ripped off twice by Russian taxi drivers, paying approximately 5x the appropriate fare. I’ve travelled a fair bit around the world,  but I’d said to Barrett I’d not want to go to Russia ,without being with someone who spoke the language.
That was a left over from the Cold War and reading Solzhinitzin’s Gulag and all the ‘missing’ people,. This includes Trotsky whose image was photoshopped out of the ‘group photo’ after his death.   Meanwhile I’d had no difficulty going to Cambodia last year where the Pol Pot killed some quarter of all the citizens in a few years
So here I am in Russia, delighted that Barrett, the lawyer, is asking directions and arguing at ticket windows. I don’t think it’s really ‘arguing’.  But discussions often sound like such in other languages. I turned to see if a Chinese couple were fighting because their language sounded so harsh only to see the couple was smiling at each other, no doubt ‘bantering’ lovebirds.
Ulyanovsk is the birthplace of Lenin.  It was a fortress that at one time defended Russia against a Cossack invasion.  Thinking of Lenin, as the hometown boy, I wondered if Dale Carnegie’s birthplace is so celebrated.  Certainly Akron Ohio as a birthplace of note  gets a regular motley pilgrimage of sorts.
Russia is so European to me now. It’s certainly more advanced than Greece.  Today the news was of three cosmonauts going to the International Space Station.  Everywhere there is evidence of the high technology of the people. Yet there’s this ancient history.
Generalizations pale.  A friend was commenting on the poverty of first nations in Canada and didn’t realize that oil had made many groups obscenely rich. Indeed, within the communities today there’s a real pressure to address the disproportionate wealth of the chiefs now millionaires while their people god without housing.  So yes, there’s poverty but there’s always the problem of distribution of wealth. Add to that addiction, which is my field. There's no end to the wealth a coke addict, crystal meth addict or heroin addict will go through before poverty alone stops their downward spiral. The gamblers are a whole other problem.
As a scientist I deal in probabilities and population dynamics but generalizations are anathema.  Here I’ve a tourists slice of a great country and am just seeing a couple of cities.  This does become ‘my Russia’.  It’s the ‘anecdotal evidence’ that collated with masses of other ‘opinion polls’ would create an anthropologists ‘impression survey'.  It has 'face validity' if nothing else.  In the end, I can only really know my own perceptions.
As it is I like Russia very much. I like the churches and the people on the street. Other than the larcenous taxi drivers I’ve encountered none of the gangsterism I was warned against.  I think Barrett’s grasp of the language and Russian passport has limited that risk somewhat.  Ironically my Russian friends have said tourists were safer under the old regime because foreigners were assigned a spy and that spy scared off the low life.  Today a tourist is on his own.  I confess, older now, I  had no desire to go out partying at night clubs all night.  Older now, and perhaps wiser, I’m not drunk and vulnerable as I once was as a youth in foreign countries where prayers most likely protected me from the worst. My friend was raped and beaten in Marseille,  Another was knived cycling Europe.  I came away comparatively unscathed. I’m thankful for the safety of this trip so far and pray that it remains thus.
I told Barrett I’d bought a certified icon of the Kazan Church of the Virgin Icon. This is no doubt favourable for our impending flight.  Her mother thinks she should pray to St. Anthony because she’s always losing things.  She dropped her passport in the crazy muddle of security.  I was glad to be there if only to save her from the shock of realizing the loss when she’d passed through the metal detectors.
Yesterdat she pointed out my backpack was wide open . There’s merit in the buddy system.

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St. Petersburg, evening

I’ve just had dinner in an internet cafe.  Salad and a meat pie in a delicious cream sauce.  I walked around a bit today.  We’re flying to Ulyanovsk early tomorrow.  This was previously know as Simbirsk and was the birthplace of Lennin.  Barrett has family and friends there.  I’m going along for the ride.  On my own I would have only gone to Moscow and St. Petersburg.  It's all an adventure.
After the Peter and Paul Fortress Barrett headed off to be with friends. I ended back in the Kazan Cathedral. I bought an icon there. Mother and Child.  I’d meant to go the Russian Art Museum but found it closed when I got there. It was closed the other day we tried to go there too.  I found another icon, St. George. These icons come with official certificates . I found a silk scarf as well. The wind has been chilly.  I think it will work well as a motorcycling scarf too.  I stopped for coffee a couple of times. I blogged. It’s been raining cats and dogs and hippopotamus.  I am thankful for my umbrella and jacket.  I’m tired out from walking.  I got over by the Admirality Building searching for St. Peter on his horse.  I found him. I also found St. Isaac's Cathedral but passed on climbing the 262 steps of the Colonnade. The cathedral itself was closed.  On the way back I passed the Church of the Spilled Blood again.  I suspect the building I saw a clinic or hospital building too.
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Museum of Political History of Russia, St. Petersburg

This definitely has recent soviet era Russia.  Whereas much of what I’ve encountered overlooks this time here is a museum of modern times. Lennin, Stalin, Breschnev.  They even have the 1937 Reign of Terrior.  I was surprised to see this though suspect the actual numbers of deaths are deflated.  Still the merits of the times are represented. I was reminded of Smithsonian museums that are similar. Newspapers, furniture, photographs.  I was most impressed by replicas of the offices of the Bolsheviks and Lennin’s Office.
I liked the celebration of athletes. They referenced the great Russian and Canadian Hockey matches. Barrett, being American, didn’t even know of this greatest of moments in all history.  I explained to her that the game of hockey was at its finest then and we watched it with adulation because of the skill and strategy involved.  When Vlad and I had talked hockey yesterday he lamented that the best players had gone overseas.  I personally think Hollywood destroyed the game with all the crowd pleasing violence.  Recent head injuries and spinal injuries among players may bring the game back from its silly boxing matches on ice skates to stickman ship and skating.  I had to confess to Barrett the best hockey I’d seen recently was the Canadian versus American Women’s hockey.  Same level of skills without all the violence. That said I so enjoyed the Canucks game I attended last year. There wasn’t any of the violence and the skills of the players were world class.  The coaching left something to be desired in other games.
I digress, here in this St. Petersburg Museum, those greatest of hockey games are eulogized. As it should be.
The day was such a downpour that I bought us souvenir umbrellas in the underground station.
In the civil war there were  Red, White and Green Armies. I never heard of the Greens,  In the Bolshevik office it was good to see a picture of Trotsky resurrected.
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St. Petersburg - Rainy Cold Day

Barrett told me the latitude of St. Petersburg is about the same as Anchorage.  “When people tell me about the ‘White Nights’, I tell them I get that in Anchorage”.  Apparently our overnight train went  closely north out of Moscow.  It was too hot the first day we arrived, like in Moscow, almost Mexican hot. Then overnight the clouds came and we were chilly in jackets and hats in the cold wind and drizzle yesterday.  At times I felt like Winnipeg Spring. But the nearby Bay of Finland and harbour gives the air that Vancouver nearby sea scent.  There’s pigeons but I’ve not seen the sea gulls of port towns yet.
Today the rain is heavy.  Looking outside I see umbrellas everywhere as if I was transported back to Vancouver.  I suffered the heat and now I’m about to suffer the wet and cold.  I found myself thinking of Jimmy Buffet’s, tropical,  Changes in Latitude - Changes in Attitude song.  Without the sun, I’m dreary as the day. We’re planning to visit the Peter and Paul Fortress. This was where Peter laid the first foundations for what has become this great city of St. Petersburg.
Yesterday I saw fur stores. The Russian art shows sleighs and skis.  I talked with Vlad about hockey.  Jamaicans don’t know what they’re missing. Life maybe a beach for some but without the variety and challenge there’s lethargy and waste. I remember languishing in the Mexican summer, the year I lived there. I couldn’t wait to get out in my sailboat just for the breeze that made the weather tolerable. Here I’ll buy an umbrella though my Vancouver shell jacket and Montreal beret are adequate.  Were I here in winter I’d dress like I did in Winnipeg, parka, fur hats, long johns mittens and boots.  It is easier to adapt to the persistent climates than the mercurial politics.
There has been recurrent flooding in St. Petersburg.  With rising seas it’s likely going to have to invest in higher walls for the canals.  I remember Winnipeg flooding, flood ways, dikes and sandbagging.  Nature is forever offering challenging.  The English spoke of the ‘oppressive’ climate of India and moved out of the cities to the hills away from mosquitoes and squalor.  Gandhi in contrast adapted to his climate called the British ‘oppressive’.
Here about I’m aware that extraordinary changes have occurred in a couple of decades. We sat in a ‘post soviet’ cafe and ate lunch under the stark authoritarian parental posters of the old regime.  Vlad had apparently picked this place because it was the least expensive of cafes in the downtown with the best of food.  Barrett liked the posters. Het!!
Watching the ticket offices and some of the other civil servant processes occurring I intuit an irritability even greater than in the west.  The notion of ‘servant’ is new to the government officials and one imagines some are disillusioned by this new world. Certainly the ‘customer’ doesn’t rule yet as in Canada.  There we all live in terror daily fearing summons to the complaints department, law suits or civil rights tribunals.  There is a sense of freedom here.  But is that simply a changing of the guard?  A brief respite of weather.
The elite have their own issues.  It’s often harder to hold onto power than it is to acquire it.  "Rags to riches in three generation and riches to rags to one”, is the old truism. It applies to empires as well with each the world has known lasting less and less time.  Alexander’s empire and the Roman Empire lasted an infinity compared to the British. America and the USSR were johnny come late lies.  China and India are in the offings now while Africa and South America languish.
Meanwhile I’m thankful to have brought a water resistant shell jacket.  All the riches are naught when one is without basic comforts such as jackets and umbrellas. IMG 5005DSCN1776DSCN1767DSCN1701DSCN1716DSCN1764DSCN1675DSCN1750DSCN1726DSCN1620DSCN1614DSCN1610DSCN1609DSCN1602DSCN1600